CHILAQUILES

One of the favorite breakfasts of Mexicans (and also one of my personal favorites), this dish can range from very simple to part of a gourmet brunch. Chilaquiles have become one of the most traditional dishes in Mexico.

And the truth is, chilaquiles are the perfect option when you're looking to eat something delicious, simple, versatile, and that wakes you up (it's no wonder it's the most sought-after breakfast after a night of partying to cure a hangover).

The origin of this dish is truly unknown, as its exact origin has not been determined. The only thing known for certain about chilaquiles is that their name comes from Nahuatl. The priest and historian Ángel María Garibay explained that the dish comes from the word chilaquili, which is derived from chil (chile) and aquili (to be inside something), so its meaning would be "submerged in chile" or "put in chile."

And really, chilaquiles are just that: fried tortillas bathed in sauce, accompanied by some protein, cream, fresh cheese, cilantro, and onion. The simplicity of this dish gives it enormous versatility, allowing those who prepare it the freedom to combine different flavors creatively in this dish, using different sauces, proteins, garnishes, and even presentations.

Speaking of creativity, some time ago I worked at a restaurant during brunch where chilaquiles were served; when I started working there, they only served red and green chilaquiles. However, the owner wanted to expand the sauce options for customers, and that's when the executive chef and I worked together to create two more sauces: white sauce with habanero and black sauce. I'm sharing my version of the black chilaquiles sauce so you can try it at home.

Ingredients (for 6 servings):

• 1 kg of green tomatillo (cleaned and washed)

• 1 medium white onion

• 8 garlic cloves

• 3-4 serrano chiles

• 1/2 kg of tortillas (approximately 16-20 tortillas)

• 5-6 cilantro sprigs

• 1 liter of oil

For the garnish:

• Cream

• Fresh cheese

• Finely chopped red onion

• Chopped cilantro

Procedure:

For the totopos:

1. Cut the tortillas into quarters to form the totopos, reserving 4 whole tortillas for the sauce.

2. Fry the totopos in the oil little by little. Once fried, add a bit of salt and set aside (a trick to know if the totopos are ready is to wait until the oil stops bubbling; at this point, they should be removed as it's easy to burn them afterward).

For the sauce:

1. Place the halved or quartered tomatillo on a baking sheet, depending on their size, along with the quartered onion, garlic, and serrano chiles (without removing the seeds), drizzle with very little oil.

2. Put this tray in the oven at high heat and wait until the ingredients are cooked and slightly charred. You'll know they are ready when the outside is blackened, and both the tomatillos and garlic can be easily mashed (I recommend turning the ingredients on the tray once they reach this point, as if they don't get thoroughly charred, your sauce won't be black).

3. While waiting for the vegetables to be ready, burn the tortillas you reserved. This can be done on the stove over low heat, placing the tortilla directly on the grate where the pans sit until the tortilla is completely blackened on both sides, moving it constantly with tongs (if the tortilla starts to catch fire, it's better not to use it as the sauce will taste like ashes).

4. Once the ingredients are ready, blend them together, adding the raw cilantro and water or chicken broth to reach a slightly thick consistency. Boil this sauce and add salt to taste at this point.

Plating:

1. On the plate, place a bed of totopos, which we will bathe in the boiled or very hot black sauce.

2. Garnish with cream, fresh cheese (or cotija cheese), red onion, and chopped cilantro.

This recipe is excellent for anyone looking for a different breakfast option. Unfortunately, I don't have photos of the final product, but I would love to see your black chilaquiles! This dish can be served with chicken, beef, eggs, pork, beans, or any protein source you desire. While this recipe is excellent on its own, it's always good to add a personal touch.

I hope you enjoyed this recipe and that you give it a try. Bon appétit!