METATE

Long before the introduction of electricity in Mexico, the use of complex tools for everyday tasks was quite common. While many tools like the molcajete, the chocolate whisk, and the tortilla press are well-known, there is one that isn’t as internationally recognized: the metate.

The metate is a worn piece of volcanic stone used as a mortar, rectangular in shape with a slightly concave upper surface. Its use spread throughout southern Mexico, Guatemala, Belize, El Salvador, Honduras, Nicaragua, and Costa Rica.

This tool has pre-Hispanic origins, and although it has undergone multiple designs, it was around 450 B.C. that the metates evolved into the form we know today, with the design and shape that characterize it. One of the origins of the metate is known as huilanche, which lacks the characteristic legs that provide height and inclination.

Originally, the metate was primarily used for grinding grains like corn, cacao, chiles for mole, and even rice. Today, it often serves the same purposes, although it has largely been replaced by various technologies that eliminate manual labor, such as blenders, grain and meat grinders, and juice extractors.

This tool is used in conjunction with the metlapilli, a thick cylindrical roller slightly longer than the width of the metate. It is operated with both hands using a technique that involves body weight and a characteristic wrist motion to ensure even grinding.

While its use has largely been dismantled across much of the Americas, the metate has experienced a resurgence recently, especially in traditional cuisine restaurants. This tool is credited with numerous culinary benefits, as it allows for a more even and higher-quality grinding of ingredients. Additionally, the stone often imparts a distinctive flavor to the product due to its high mineral content.

Although this instrument is still being produced, there are now smooth variants made of concrete. While these are mostly used as decorative elements, their role in kitchens persists.

Now you know about one of the finest tools used in traditional Mexican cooking, alongside the molcajete. I hope this has been informative, so that the next time you see a metate, you'll have a great conversation starter.