THE ROSCA DE REYES

To celebrate the January festivities, I thought I'd talk about the Rosca de Reyes, an annual tradition for all Mexicans that brings gifts, tamales, and (sometimes) debts... especially if you buy the Rosca from renowned bakeries or specialty stores.

The origin of the Rosca de Reyes dates back to the Middle Ages, specifically in countries like France and Spain. However, part of historical research suggests that the Rosca de Reyes originated with the Romans. It is said that during the festivities dedicated to Saturn (the god of agriculture), a coin was placed inside a sweet, and whoever found it would become king for a day.

With the advent of Christianity, before reaching Spain, the Rosca became popular in France during the reign of Louis XV. This tradition was adopted throughout Europe and evolved into what we know today, eventually arriving in Mexico during the conquest.

In Mexico, we’ve always used any festivity as an excuse to eat, and Día de Reyes (Three Kings Day) is no exception. In Mexico, the Rosca is shared on January 6th, a beautiful tradition that continues to this day and takes place in every household.

The Rosca is filled with symbolism, reflecting both religious elements and a sense of unity within the community and family:

• First of all, let’s talk about the shape: sharing a round bread symbolizes the end of one cycle and the beginning of another.

• The Rosca is decorated with dried fruits, candied fruit paste, figs, and a topping made of butter, lard, and powdered sugar, as well as cherries: all these elements resemble the crowns of the three wise men.

• Inside the Rosca, figures representing Baby Jesus are hidden, reminding us of how children were hidden from King Herod.

• Those who find the figures are responsible for buying tamales for Día de la Candelaria (Candelaria's Day)... more food.

One of the elements that has been part of the evolution of the Rosca is an ingredient that has now been completely banned: acitrón. This is a crystallized sweet made from biznaga, a Mexican endemic cactus that is currently endangered.

This sweet is produced by candying the flesh of this cactus. It is sold in cube or bar form in popular markets and candy stores. Its flavor is relatively neutral and sweet, which enhances the flavors and textures of other ingredients when combined. For this reason, it is used in many dishes, such as the Rosca de Reyes, tamales, chiles en nogada, and even as part of the stuffing for Christmas turkey.

The use of this sweet is prohibited and constitutes a federal offense under the Mexican Official Standard NOM-059. These plants are hermaphroditic and cannot be reproduced on an industrial scale. To be suitable for harvest, they must grow for 60 years due to their slow development.

There you have it: a dish that brings everything together... food, history, tradition, family, religion, and even the chance to eat more in February for Día de la Candelaria. So, if you have the opportunity to visit Mexico during the first week of January, you'll find Rosca everywhere. Enjoy!